Mud Plugging
Love it or hate it, mud is a part of mountain biking life. Steve Thomas gives us the low down on how to ride it.
Love it or hate it , mud is a fact of mountain biking life—or at least it is in certain parts of the country. Steve Thomas gives us the low down on how to ride it.
That dirty, sticky and gloopy brown stuff is one of natures great trail phenomenons, and one that will test the skills of any mountain biker to the full. Successful mud riding demands a great deal of technical skill, forethought and adaptability. How you set up your bike and the equipment that you use makes a huge difference when riding in mud. Tyres are the single most important things to consider.
Mud isn’t just mud. It can vary substantially from one area to the next, but you should have a fair idea of what you are likely encounter in your area. There’s the sticky clay like stuff, the thinner splattery gloop and every imaginable consistency in between.
First thing to consider is the width of your tyres. Wider tyres can be good in thin mud but they will get you into trouble if the mud has some clay content. Fat tyres or those with lots of side knobs will clog easily in sticky mud.
Extreme cases may see your wheels locked solid as the mud clogs up against your frame. Even if your frame offers plenty of clearance, the sheer weight of mud that fat tyres can carry will slow you to a snail’s pace.
Narrow tyres are the go if the mud is sticky. In addition to being lighter and less likely to clog, they can also cut down through the soft stuff to find traction on the more solid base that may lie underneath.
Go for tyres with stud like knobs and plenty of room between them to clear the mud. Hard compound tyres will work well in soft deep mud where you want the knobs to dig in and act like paddles. Soft compound tyres generally fare better in ‘mixed’ conditions as they provide more consistent traction on the slippery tree roots and rocks that you are likely to find on the trail.
On the whole, tyre pressures should be lower than normal to improve traction. Your speed is generally reduced in muddy conditions so you are less likely to see the impact punctures that you would get on a dry and rocky trail. However a compromise must be found when using narrow mud tyres as the risk of pinch flat punctures increases with a smaller volume carcass.
General Set-up
Your brakes are the next thing to consider. Mud will act like sand paper and can wear out a set of brake pads in just one ride. This applies to both disc and rim brakes, so ensure that you have a reasonable amount of material on your brake pads to begin with.
If you are unsure, it may be wise to carry a spare pair of pads with you. You can seriously damage disc callipers and rotors if you wear out the pads and continue to use them. With rim brakes you may destroy your rims or send the remnants of your pads into the spokes—this is likely to lock your wheel and send you flying.
Front and rear ‘crud guards’ are worth their weight in gold. The front one is the most important as it will catch much of the flying mud before it hits you in the face or eyes—this is doubly important if you wear contact lenses or rely on prescription eyewear to see.
It’s also a good idea to use Teflon based lubes as they keep the mud from sticking and help to prevent the wet from seizing your drive-train. Some also believe in spraying their entire bike (frame and all) with a moisture dispersing lube (like WD40). I think the jury is still out on this, but it may reduce mud build up and make the post ride clean-up a little easier. Try it if you like but make 100% sure that you don’t spray any onto your disc brakes!
Some riders also believe in stiffening their suspension in seriously muddy conditions. They say it helps them feel what’s beneath and makes it easier to pick precise lines.
Look After Yourself
When it’s muddy you are prone to all sorts of nasties; most of which can be avoided with a little forethought. Start with decent eye protection. Your lens choice will depend on the light conditions, but make sure that your eyewear allows for decent airflow—mud slows you down so you will tend to steam you up a lot.
Clothing wise; stick with shorts or knicks. Mud is heavy and wet, especially when it’s clogging your lycra longs. Also remember that your backside and back are going to get messy, so cover your backpack.
Mud is full of all kinds of bugs too, so keep your hydration pack nozzle protected. If you use a drink bottle, fit some sort of top cover to protect the mouthpiece.
Momentum Rules
Sticky clay like mud can be both energy sapping and slippery. It will kill your speed as if you were riding in treacle. While any mud needs to be approached with some caution, a bit of speed will really help in sticky mud. Approach it with steady momentum and make sure that you are in a lower gear than normal. This will allow you to rev through the mud when your speed dies off.
Thinner mud is more common and is not as energy sapping. For shorter sections the best approach it is ‘full-on’. Use a big gear and literally plough your way through. More sustained mud plugging still requires plenty of power and torque but the full-on big gear technique will wear you down on longer muddy sections. Aim for steady momentum in a biggish gear that will allow you to punch through the more demanding sections when you get to them.
Picking Lines
As a general rule, it pays to ride as smooth and cleanly as possible. Avoid erratic movements when choosing your line and stay as relaxed as possible on the bike. If you can avoid off-camber sections then do so, and don’t always be a sheep and follow the lines taken by others—they are not always the best. In a race situation, the course can change constantly as the track gets cut up, so you need to keep your wits about you.
Look well ahead to where you want to go and choose a path that avoids major obstacles while being as straight as possible. Once on your line it is best to commit to it. You don’t want to be ducking and weaving your way through the mud as one fast or poorly timed movement could land you face down in the brown stuff.
It is also a good idea to look for a firm base. You may find solid ground in an area that is covered in water, although if the water is real murky it’s best avoided, as it could be deep with a soft base. If the trail is predominantly hard packed, then wetter sections are likely to be safe—the water can also help in cleaning the mud from your bike.
Go with the Flow
Unless you’re doing laps of a course, you’ll never be sure of your lines and how to ride a muddy section until you’re in it. Keeping your momentum high is very important; if you stall you’ll end up on the ground. Unless the section is uphill or very long, it is best to keep a fairly big gear churning—just be ready to drop a gear if you suddenly lose speed.
Keep scanning the few met reers ahead, but keep one eye on the long-term line. Feel the terrain and allow your bike to slide around a bit—don’t fight it too much. Keep a relaxed grip on the bars with some extra weight over the back wheel to keep power on the pedals and traction on the rear wheel.
The Aftermath
Upon exiting a muddy trail you’ll find your bike dirty and clogged, which can lead to shifting and braking problems. You need to clear the crud as soon as possible—the longer you leave it the worse the damage will be.
Hard packed and road sections will automatically clear the mud if ridden at speed; just move your bike around and hop it a little to clear the mud.
Any puddles with a hard based should be seen as a natural bike wash—be sure to ride through it, and dab your brakes afterwards to clear the pads as much as you can. It is also wise to carry a small container of WD40 or some light lube—especially on longer muddy rides.
It could make the difference between finishing the ride with a muddy grin and trying to fix a broken chain in the cold! Preparation is always the key in trying conditions—suitable tyres, well maintained brakes and the right mental attitude and technique all go a long way.
The final thing to consider is whether you should actually be riding on the trails if they are muddy. Trail damage increases exponentially in the wet and some trails will get badly chopped up if they are used when they are wet. Well-formed management tracks should be fine, as are most harder pack or rock based single tracks.
Avoid delicate trails, especially those where mountain bike use may be under scrutiny. The last thing you want is to give land managers good reason to kick mountain bikers out. If your trails don’t cope well after rain and you just have to ride, grab a road bike and let the trails dry before hitting the dirt again.
Image: Steve Thomas
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